Thursday, September 11, 2008
"Here's yet another American venturing into the world."
Jacinto has left a new comment on your post "Karen's Observations after One Week in Sao Paulo, ...":
Your reactions to Brazil after a week sound more like reactions to your own provincianism. Here's yet another American venturing into the world. Shocked that nobody wears baseball caps or speaks English. The best was when you realized that Spanish and Portuguese are indeed different languages. I wonder what insight, as a travel journalist, you will provide on Brazil and other countries. I can't wait!
Hello Jacinto,
Thank you for reading and responding to my blog. Yes, you are right - my observations (not reactions) are just that:superficial, first-impressions that I thought might be helpful, in a very general way, for others who have never ventured to Brazil. I did not express shock at the differences, just noted them.
Jacinto, I wonder if you are Brazilian? On the topic of language, many Brazilians here and in the U.S. have indicated that they do indeed understand Spanish.
I look forward to sharing insights as I get to know people better.
Farewell Sao Paulo, Hello Rio! Karen in transit on Sept. 11, 2008
8 Hours - number of hours I am waiting (still) in Sao Paulo airport to fly to Rio.
8 Nights - number of nights I spent at Green Place Flat in Sao Paulo, Brazil, before leaving today.
8 p.m. - Time my flight departs for Rio. It is only an hour, 15 min. flight.
It's strange to be in an airport all day on September 11. I have paid silent tribute to the many victims who died that day. Many were just travelers boarding another airplane to go to their destination...
Karen tries to make her luggage look smaller by crouching down next to it before she left her hotel room in Sao Paulo, Thursday morning.
Call it procrastination or spontaneity, but I thought it would be fun and exciting to show up at the airport at noon today and fly stand-by to Rio. From online research, I knew the flight should cost about $100 reales. At the airport, I went to three airline desks and was quoted $300-$600 for a ticket. I was told it would be cheaper to book on the Internet. So I did. The one flight that was a reasonable price departed at 8 p.m.
Good news: With 8 hours to kill, I have been hanging out all day at a lovely rooftop cafe here at the airport. It has a cityscape view, fresh breeze, decent food and kind waiters. Due to one language mishap, I am now on my fourth bottle of water con gas. Best of all, there are no booming airline announcements broadcast up here.
Flavia Frangetto and I struck up a conversation today at the airport cafe after she and her companion borrowed my flash drive. Here, she displays her doctoral thesis! Flavia is a lawyer and getting her doctorate in environmental law. She is especially interested in global warming issues.
I have been thinking about how much time I have spent on the computer so far this trip. A little weird to be so wired and connected. Today, my technology helped me make an old-fashioned face-to-face connection here at the airport cafe. A gentleman approached me seeing that I was using my Apple laptop, and asked if he could borrow my zip drive. He was sitting at a table next to me and I said sure. When he returned it soon after, I gave him my business card (tireless networker that I am). Turns out he is a professor of environmental studies. After he left, the woman who shared his table came over and introduced herself. And that led to a wonderful conversation with a brilliant and beautiful woman from Sao Paulo, Flavia Frangetto.
Going to go check in now! I have too much luggage! The plan is to stay at a hostel in Rio; I have arranged my reservation online and plan to meet a driver at the airport in Rio. Wish me luck!
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
So You Want to Be a Freelance Travel Writer? Being you own boss means managing your marketing, sales, technology and networking strategies - in addition to world travel!

Good luck!
Here's food for thought from the Writer's Newsletter The Written Road:
Tuesday, September 09, 2008
Karen's Observations after One Week in Sao Paulo, Brazil

MEALS
I have not yet figured this out: At a live music/restaurant place last Friday night, I was asked to pay a fee to the musicians - on the way out, at the end of the evening. (So was everyone else.) I was confused. Seemed the idea was to pay the cover charge at the end of the night?
FASHION
QUESTION: What is adventure travel? ANSWER: Leaving your hotel room!
The biggest danger I faced so far was going nuts from working long, solitary hours at in my hotel room at Green Place Flat. Sunday and Monday, I have been holed up tackling projects related to the wonderful Adventure Travel Trade Association South American Summit (which was Wed.-Sunday). It's been a wild ride:
* Sorting through piles of business cards and tour company materials from the conference.
* Uploading photos, catching up on email, posting updates and entering data.
A visit to Ibirapuera Park was the perfect break from the city bustle. More on the park, below.I've spent seven nights at this hotel and am now buddies with desk clerks Renato, Ishmael and Arturo. I will leave Sao Paulo this Thursday. Where to? I am thinking Rio and the Amazon, not sure yet. My mountain bike tour in Peru with Sacred Rides starts Sept. 27 in Lima ...
Today's Highlights:
1. Marilyn Diggs - I found Marilyn online, by accident, through one of my favorite writer's websites, Travelwriters.com. I noticed that she lived in Sao Paulo and was an American, an accomplished writer and painter. We exchanged emails and she generously offered travel advice on Sao Paulo and Brazil in general. She has been here 20 years. I accepted her kind invitation to meet her today and will write more about that fun encounter.
Marilyn Diggs, an American writer and artist, has been a resident of Brazil for 20 years, She invited me to her home today in the neighborhood she called "the Manhattan of Sao Paulo."2. Ibirapuera Park - This oasis of calm in the traffic-choked city of Sao Paulo was just the boost I needed. Like San Francisco's Golden Gate Park, Ibirapuera Park houses several prominent city museums. Thanks to Marilyn's recommendation, I visited the Afro-Brazilian museum, which was Smithsonian- quality (top notch!). I watched the runners and cyclists do their afternoon workouts and sat by the lake watching the black geese. I also had a delicious buffet lunch at a restaurant in the park and was thrilled to find leafy greens there!

3. Money - At last, a cash infusion! Big thanks to the one Citibank ATM in Brazil that was in the mood to accept my ATM card. Til now, I survived on cash loans from conference friends.
4. Shipped stuff to California - The only crime I encountered was the outrageous cost of shipping a backpack of my surplus stuff (mostly clothes) to the U.S. I also sent my cell phone since it is useless here and would be expensive to replace if stolen. Part of the reason for the $$$ was DHL had to send it 4 days express mail - they did not have any other options. Given my investment in time and money to get to this shop, I decided it was worthwhile to send the stuff so I don't have to schlep business clothes with me through the rainforest and the Andes.
* CRIME REPORT: Despite dire warnings, during my first day as a solo female visitor in Sao Paulo, I did not feel unsafe in the business district or at the park. I was home before dark. I kept a close eye on my purse, walked with purpose, did not pull out a map and was pleased when I was addressed in Portuguese. I took care not to wear my camera around my neck, a backpack or beltpouch which might indicate "tourist."
Sunday, September 07, 2008
Karen's Presentation on Media Panel at ATTA South American Summit

COMING SOON ON THIS BLOG: How You Can Get Media Coverage - Notes from Karen's ATTA SUMMIT Presentation

Just to make sure the audience is awake and listening, Karen asks them questions about their company websites. Karen reminds the audience that everyone has a story to tell - in print, online, in video and photos!
Photo credit: Ana Laura Araya, analaura@alarayaphoto.com
Co-speakers on the Saturday media panel, "Beyond the Press Release" were Nancy Harrison, of ATMS, Adventure Travel Media Source, a media news service, and Kiko Nogueira, editor of Abril, in Brazil.
Photo credit: Ana Laura Araya, analaura@alarayaphoto.com
Free trip to Brazil! Timo Shaw of Country Walkers wins drawing at ATTA South American Summit in Sao Paulo

Timo wins big! His upcoming free trip to Brazil does NOT include a visit with these two beautiful women, who were working at the Adventure Sports Fair. The fair took place in the same venue as our summit.
Timo Shaw, president of Country Walkers, landed the grand prize Saturday night at the Adventure Travel Trade Association South American Summit - a free trip to Brazil. I am jealous! This transplanted New Zealander who recently moved to Waterbury, Vermont, from Seattle, Washington, has a wonderful sense of humor and kept many of us laughing all weekend. Congratulations, Timo!
Saturday, September 06, 2008
NEWSFLASH: My media presentation is today at the Adventure Travel Trade Association South American Summit here in Sao Paulo, Brazil!

Karen, hard at work, talking to tour operator Javier Lopez of Cascada Travel at the Expo Center Imigrantes in Sao Paulo, Friday, Sept. 5.
Today's update: Two is the magic number!
2 a.m. - Last night, the time I caught a taxi back to my hotel, Green Place Flat. Dinner at an outdoor downtown cafe was at 10 p.m., followed by dancing at another place, til 1:30 a.m.
It was my first time out in Sao Paulo. It was fun to be with a lively group of international friends from the ATTA convention - and far away from the hotel and convention center. It was authentic Brazil!
2 - Number of caipirinhas I drank last night. Since this is THE drink of Brazil, it was my duty to try it! The first one was so delicious and sweet, I had to have a second. Then I realized how strong they are!
2 - Hours of sleep, maybe a little more. I caught the taxi at 2 a.m. and was in bed by 3 a.m. I slept on and off til I got up at 7:30 a.m. today.
2 - Hours of panic this morning on two issues: 1. I am almost completely out of money. Tried two ATM machines so far, and can't get any money using my WAMU bank card. I'm spending a small fortune in taxi fare. I must resolve this money problem immediately! 2. I found my Apple power cord in the Lost and Found today at the expo after leaving it behind yesterday.
2 p.m. - The hour today that I join Nancy Harrison of ATMS, a media news service, to give my presentation, see below.
2 - More days of conference - today and tomorrow! Tomorrow won't be too much work: I am going whitewater rafting as part of the conference Day Outside!
Ciao!
Track 3 - Public Relations Atacama Room
Beyond the Press Release: Creative Strategies for Increased Media
(and consumer) Visibility
Learn how to look beyond the press release to access a much broader
audience for your special news. Learn how news services increase
visibility through popular search engines, creating photo and/or video
libraries for journalist access, establishing media/press centers that
positions you/your company as THE experts.
Nancy Harrison, Adventure Travel Media Source - USA
Karen Kefauver, Freelance Journalist - USA
Kiko Nogueira, Editora Abril - BRA
Friday, September 05, 2008
Adventure Writer Tackles Big Conference Center - and Wins!
Tuesday, September 02, 2008
Photos from day trip in Laguna, Santa Catarina, Brazil
Fishing is a way of life in Laguna.
Rodrigo Litman, our guide and part of the family that owns Vida Sol e Mar Eco-resort where I stayed, chats with a fisherman in Laguna.
Warm welcome to Brazil - first night in coastal eco-resort, Vida Sol e Mar at Praia do Rosa Beach
Farewell Florianopolis and hello Sao Paulo - fly to conference on Wed. Sept. 3
I survived the whale watching expedition today - photos and details later! I have had some internet connection problems and am recruiting my mother to help me publish a few earlier entries on this blog. Thanks, mom!
Ciao,
Karen
Saturday, August 30, 2008
Worst Airline Nightmare Quiz + report on my six-hour flight (leg one of three) from San Francisco to Miami

"You deserve a medal," whispered the American Airlines flight attendant. She gave me a sympathetic pat on the shoulder, glanced at the screaming toddler next to me and continued down the aisle, away from the ruckus in Row 22. I have never traveled with a toddler under my care on a cross-country flight, but I now feel fully qualified after this six hour-flight from San Francisco, California, to Miami, Florida. This little fellow with the robust vocal cords had a doting support staff of three: mom plus two grandparents catering to his every whim. I tuned out much of the family frenzy by listening to my Ipod (grateful I decided to bring it!).
I am enjoying my hour layover in Miami - though clearly I'm not dressed properly for Rio - many of the women here at the gate are wearing tight, "skinny" jeans, spike heels, plunging necklines and have manes of luscious, long hair.
Next up: fly from Miami to Rio, then Rio to Florianopolis, where I will meet my whale watching tour group at the airport. I may be a little out of it by my arrival time of noon Sunday.
NOTE TO PROCRASTINATORS: Packing this morning, an hour before I left, was not such a hot idea - turned out that clothing/gear for an 11-day mountain bike trip at elevation of 8,000-14,000 feet, business clothes for conference and clothing for the tropics did not fit in my new 4,0000 cubic inch wheeled luggage from Patagonia store. So I have an "overflow" bag ....
Thanks, Luke, for all your tech support, and Jec, for the ride to the airport today.
What do you think is the WORST scenario for a six-hour flight:
a. Sitting squashed next to a generously-sized person
b. Being in close earshot of a screaming baby
c. Having an over-talkative seatmate
Ciao for now!
Friday, August 29, 2008
Just six degrees of separation between my upcoming trip to Peru and my recently published story about my first skydiving tandem jump

One of the most intriguing responses to my emailed newsletter about my upcoming South America trip came from a fellow right here in Santa Cruz.
"I used to be the coach of the Peruvian National Skydiving Team in the mid-80's," wrote Mark Knutson of Santa Cruz. Turns out that Mark, known as "Shoobi" to friends, and I share an interest in bicycling and are now on the same bike race team.
He is pictured above with actresses Drew Barrymore (left) and Cameron Diaz (right). The celebrities were seen skydiving in the movie Charlie's Angels.
To see the skydiving video and my tandem jump story, read the previous blog entry.
Skydiving - Experience the thrill of a tandem jump from an airplane! My skydiving story and video now in Adventure Sports Journal
Adventure Sports Journal has published my story in print and online: The Ultimate Rush: A first-time skydiver discovers new frontier.
one of Adventure Center's pro photographers/solo skydivers.
FUN NOTE: I recently learned that a member of my bicycling race team here in Santa Cruz served as the coach of Peru's National Skydiving Team in the mid-80's! That will be a good story! I leave for Peru and Brazil tomorrow, Saturday, August 30. First stop: whale watching, Then I will be a speaker at the Adventure Travel Trade Association World Summit in Sao Paulo, Brazil.
Wednesday, August 27, 2008
Can't wait to eat my way through Brazil
(1) Juice Bars. Every one of them puts Jamba Juice to shame. Not only cheaper and fresher, but filled with fruits from the Amazon that you've never heard of. Amazing! I highly recommend drinking as much mamao com leche (papaya milkshake) as you can stomach.
(2) Churrascaria. Churrascaria is what all steakhouses want to be when they grow up. It's an experience you can't miss. If you can find one where they mix caiprinhias tableside, all the better.
(3) Feijoada. This is the Brazilian national dish. It's a conglomeration of black beans and pork bits served with kale and manioc flour. It was originally a dish eaten by slaves and so traditionally comes with some pork "offcuts." If you're not into snouts and ears, try it at a slightly westernized place first.
If you go to Rio, visit Copa, Ipanema or Leblon and you will experience what has to be the best beach food scene in the world. While you soak up the sun and people-watch, a stream of hawkers selling all sorts of edibles makes their way up and down the beach with. Various vendors will offer:
- Coolers full of sandwich fixings for custom sandwiches
- Mini-grills to fire up skewers of shrimp or cheese with oregano or calamari
- Baskets of abacaxi (pineapples) that they will slice and dice open
Plus, vendors sell cold drinks, ice cream, grilled corn on the cob, ice cold coconuts. If you don't find anything you like, there are kiosks every couple of hundred feet selling all sorts of tasty treats. I don't know how people there stay in such great shape will all those temptations around, but somehow they manage.
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Your fun responses to my South America travel newsletter
I saw this email (xxx) on your blog. Do we now all know the secret address to email posts so they end up on your blog?
John and I are off on Monday, September 1, for 3 weeks in the South Pacific: Palau, Kosrae, and Guam.
I am in Shanghai. We're leaving tomorrow night to go to a beautiful place to hike -- where they filmed Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon.
If they still have it, (5 years ago they did) I suggest you buy a "Skybus" ticket - giving you discounted air travel within Brazil so you can really travel around the huge country. (Carbon Emissions Aside).
- Philip, China
Is this your first trip to Brazil? You don´t want to miss Rio, for example. The Amazon is another interesting must-see. Fernando de Noronha is one of my favorite spots.
One thing that can be really handy when you are traveling is to carry grapefruit seed extract with you. You can put a few drops on any salads or into a glass of water to reduce parasite/bacteria dangers. Also I recommend strongly carrying a water filter, as relying on plastic bottles is not only just bad but also not reliable.
Here's a link to the book I mentioned - "Smile When You're Lying: The Confessions of a Rogue Travel Writer."
http://www.amazon.com/Smile-When-Youre-Lying-Confessions/dp/0805082093/ref=si3_rdr_bb_product
I thought it was a fun read...bet it'd give you a good laugh being in the biz.
- Laura, Scotts Valley, California
Monday, August 25, 2008
Karen's Presentation Topic for Adventure Travel Trade Association Summit in Brazil
Friday, August 22, 2008
Olympian Jill Kintner wins bronze medal in BMX in Beijing
For more about Jill, visit her Team GT website.
Excerpt from GT Bicycles press release:
Seattle's Jill Kintner earned the well-deserved bronze medal honors with her third place finish. After blazing her way through three rounds of competition, Jill had to battle seven of the world's top riders, including Anne-Caroline Chausson and Laetitia le Courguille of France to take home a medal. Jill also rode a GT Power Series Ultra Box with custom Team USA graphics. In a particularly hard-fought race punctuated by three different crashes, including one that took out powerful British rider Shanaze Reade, Jill maintained her composure, avoided the wreckage, and pedaled through it to the bronze.
"It was like the seas had parted and there it is - go!" said Kintner.
Mike Day (who won a silver medal in the men's BMX), Donny Robinson, who won bronze and Jill's places on the podium are especially noteworthy since this was the first time BMX Race has been included as an Olympic sport.
2008 U.S. Olympic Games
Beijing, China
Aug. 8-24
Men's BMX results
1. Maris Strombergs (LAT)
2. Mike Day (Santa Clarita, Calif.)
3. Donny Robinson (Napa, Calif.)
Women's BMX results
1. Ann-Caroline Chausson (FRA)
2. Laetitia Le Corguille (FRA)
3. Jill Kintner (Seattle, Wash.)
Monday, August 18, 2008
In Sao Paulo, the helicopter is a preferred means of travel for those who can afford it

My friend Andrew Hecht, pictured above, forwarded me an interesting article about Sao Paulo, Brazil, the site of my upcoming Adventure Travel Trade Association World Summit, Sept 3-7.
Published by The Guardian, Tom Phillips' story provides an interesting glimpse into increasing Brazilian affluence and the city's growing pains.
Excerpts:
* According to Brazil's National Aviation Agency the number of helicopters in Sao Paulo state jumped from 374 to 469 between 1999 and 2008, making it the helicopter capital of the world ahead of both New York and Tokyo.
* The helicopter boom has transformed Sao Paulo into a real-life, South American episode of The Jetsons, with a constant flow of helicopters jittering through the city's skies, tiny spots ducking and diving as they make their way from helipad to helipad.
* Traffic jams often stretch to more than 130 miles in greater Sao Paulo, a sprawling megalopolis accommodating around 20 million people and 6 million cars. Last year more cars were sold here than ever before with nearly 1,000 new vehicles hitting the roads each day.
AT A GLANCE
6 million -Cars in Sao Paulo
70,000 - Minimum number of helicopter flights within central Sao Paulo each year
11,000 - Annual flights and landings at London's main heliport, in Battersea
820 - Helicopter pilots work in Sao Paulo; each can earn $100,000 a year
420 - Helipads in Sao Paulo - 75% of Brazil's total and 50% more than the whole UK
·SOURCE: ESRC
